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Lisbon: Das Flores

Rua das Flores, 76-78 Bairro Alto

Closing day: Open from noon to 4 p.m. daily, closed in the evenings.

Reviewed by: hanan sher from israel, review #3661

When: 2010

Simple and very good neighborhood restaurant in Bairro Alto section

Directions: Not far from Chiado square, about two blocks. Go downhill from square, it's a block past the fire station

We found this small restaurant on the edge of the Bairro Alto almost by accident, when we spotted people lining up outside. We were also helped by the proprietor of a nearby shop, who told us that the food was good, the prices were reasonable, and most important of all the place was frequented by locals, mostly businessmen from the neighborhood – but that we'd probably have to wait a while to get a table.

He was also going there, to meet his teenage daughter for lunch.

We stepped into the tiny entranceway, and saw that all of the nine or ten tables were occupied, and that we were third or fourth in line – after our friend, the shopkeeper. While we waited, he told us that one of the diners at the corner table was Lisbon's most famous architect, who like other celebs was attracted by the simplicity of the place.

The result was worth the 15-minute wait. The menu, all in Portuguese, included about six fish items (pesche), which that day included the famous bacala-and-fried potatoes dish attributed to the northern city of Braga, and a similar number of meats – three different kinds of steak, one served with a sunny-side up fried egg on top that was ordered by several people at neighboring tables, lamb chops and chicken. The place's one waitress, who like most young Portuguese we encountered said they spoke “a little” English but really spoke a lot, helped us with the translation. The meats came with fries, the fish dishes with lightly salted boiled potatoes (the taters are particularly delicious in Portugal) and veg (thinly sliced green beans with Sara's steak, super-delicious fresh spinach with my fish. We ended the meal off with a rice pudding (delicious) and something that seemed to be custard cake (good, but not spectacular).

Best of all was the bill – 23 euros, including the large very fresh salad we shared as a starter, the customary bread and cover charge, bottled water and coffee. That was about half of what we'd be charged at any of the tourist traps in the neighborhood, and of higher quality.

If there's a problem in writing this review, it comes for concerns for the regulars at Das Flores, who may not appreciate tourists who make them wait even longer for their lunch.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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