Travel slowly, staying in vacation rentals (villas, farms, cottages, apartments)
Report 1114: Bergamo, Venice, Lerici, Piemonte, Friends & World Cup Mania
By girasoli from Hawaii, Summer 2006
Page 11 of 23: Tellaro and San Terenzo
The skies were even more overcast when I woke up Wednesday morning. Since I was feeling a little sluggish and was not sure what the weather would be like, I decided to wait until Thursday to spend the day riding boats, visiting the villages of Cinque Terre. I remembered reading about Tellaro and checked at the front desk about the bus schedule. The man at the desk told me that the bus left for Tellaro every 30 minutes.
So, I had my plan for the day. After another wonderful breakfast, I walked down to the bus stop in the piazza. I bought my ticket at the tabbacheria stand and waited for the bus.
Buses are often late in Italy, but on this day, it seemed that I was waiting much longer than normal for a late bus. I finally went to look at the schedule posted on a sign near the bus stop and realized that the time I had thought the bus should arrive (which also was the time the hotel told me) only occurred on Saturdays. A few of the every 30 minute time periods were only Saturday events. On all other days during these hours, the bus only ran hourly. And so, I continued to wait.
One thing that often happens when waiting for a bus that is late is that you end up meeting others that are also waiting for the late bus. I talked to the sweetest older woman who also thought that the bus came at 10:30, and she lived in Tellaro! She began to tell me about the town. She said it was a very small town and there were not many people who lived there. When the bus finally arrived, a big group boarded off we went. The ride took about 15 minutes.
When we arrived in Tellaro, the woman took me on a short tour of the town before she headed home. She was the sweetest woman. She told her husband to go ahead and that she would be home shortly. The town was quite charming with a little beach area at the bottom of the stairs and beautiful views. I thanked her for the tour and then went back to the tiny center to buy some focaccia with tomatoes for lunch at a little bar. Then I went back down to the harbor and hung out on a rock for a while before catching the bus back to Lerici.
After returning to Lerici, I spent some time in the center of town looking in some of the shops. Later in the afternoon, I went to the Castello/Museo Geopaleontologico. This ended up being a museum I really could have skipped. The rooms were full of dinosaur info, large fake dinosaurs, and old rocks, none of which excited me. However, the views from the castle were beautiful.
To get to the castle, you can either walk up TONS of stairs or take the elevator that is located inside a tunnel. Since I had been doing quite a bit of walking, I chose the elevator. Interestingly, when the elevator door opened, there was a woman inside sitting by the buttons ready to collect your money for the ride up. You were given the choice of either purchasing a one-way ticket or a round-trip ticket. I bought the round-trip for €1.
After my short tour of the museum, I walked to San Terenzo, which is the town located next to Lerici. San Terenzo is a little town with a beach, which runs the length of the main part of the town. It also has lots of little shops. On my way to San Terenzo, I finally found the tourist "i" information booth. It was located at the edge of Lerici, closer to San Terenzo right were the bus suddenly ended our trip on my day of arrival. The woman in the little information booth was very helpful. She gave me lots of info on many of the towns nearby. I really enjoyed San Terenzo and thought it was a lovely little beach town. Interestingly both San Terenzo & Lerici are located across the bay from each other and so you can see the view of one from the other.
After spending about an hour exploring the town, I caught the bus back to Lerici, as I was not feeling that well. I decided to get some food and eat dinner in my room. I sat out on my balcony for a while enjoying the view and then went to bed.
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