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Report 1676: Paris 2009 - The Second Time Around

By Sound_Diva from Florida, Spring 2009

Trip Description: Husband and wife rent an apartment and spend their days visiting museums, enjoying the gardens and other attractions that Paris has to offer, March 12 - March 23, 2009.

Destinations: Countries - France; Regions/Cities - Paris

Categories: Vacation Rentals; Cooking Classes; Sightseeing; Wine Trip; Independent Travel; 2 People

Page 1 of 1: We Love Paris ... And it Shows

The Departure - Thursday

Well, the day FINALLY came .. we were off to Paris. Got to TPA in plenty of time and only needed about 15 minutes to get through security check-in. Then the “fun” started. Our Continental flight was delayed and then delayed again. Scheduled to leave at 5:05 pm, we actually took off at about 6:30 pm. We were sweating bullets because we only had an hour and 45 minutes to connect in Newark with the flight to Paris. We finally took off, the pilot made up some time in the air, and we exited the plane running to make our connection, which we did with 10 minutes to spare! Settled in for a long and boring flight. Arrived on time at CDG on Friday. Got through customs in about 20 minutes and got our luggage in about 10 minutes. Which leads us to...

Friday

We had booked with Shuttle-Inter, but we cleared customs so quickly that we ended up standing at the exit for about 10 minutes before the driver arrived (at the pre-arranged time). The van was a new Peugeot, comfortable and immaculate. Off we went into Paris. Grey and cloudy day, but driver was very nice and provided a running commentary on all the areas we passed through en route to our apartment.

We rented a two bedroom apartment at the Palais Royal (30 rue de Montpensier) through Paris Vacation Apartments. Our pre-trip dealings with them were efficient and seamless. We were greeted by their rep Karina (who was actually unlocking the front door as we pulled up in the shuttle). Karina had brought flowers, baguettes and wine to welcome us. Got settled in to our lovely Parisian apartment and headed out for our first adventure ... getting a carnet at Palais Royal Metro to make the trip to Le Vin en Tete for the wine we would need to get us through the first couple of days (at least according to DH).

It was a cute shop and DH spent some time talking to the owner and selecting wine while I wandered about a bit on the street, just happy to be in Paris once again. With the wine mission accomplished, we headed to Monoprix (near Opera) and got a few munchies and walked back to the apartment. By this time we were pretty much exhausted, so we stopped in at a little Italian restaurant down the street and got a yummy three-cheese pizza and of course, had a bottle of our recently purchased wine, which was very nice. We were exhausted by this time, so we turned in early, happy knowing that we were actually in Paris at last!

Saturday

Saturday dawned gray and cloudy (again). We had a leisurely light breakfast (pain au chocolat, fruit and coffee) and headed off to the Musee du Vin, where we had lunch reservations. As this was part of the “birthday trip” for DH, we had the “Menu Bacchus,” which included selected wine matched to each of the three courses. We sat smiling, eating and enjoying the atmosphere. The food was unbelievable ... the first of some of the best meals of our lives in our favorite city.

After 2-1/2 hours, we finished lunch and took the audio guide tour of the Musee, which was actually quite interesting and entertaining. Giggling like a couple of kids, we took off from the Passy Metro station for our next destination – the top of the Arc de Triomphe (which we didn’t get to during our November 2007 trip). The Arc was absolutely mobbed with people, but getting to the top was no problem. Only got a few pictures (one particularly good one of the Eiffel Tower) as it was still cloudy. Seeing the eternal flame was a bit sobering, thinking about what it stood for. All in all, a good visit.

Headed down the Champs Elysees by bus and arrived at Place de la Concorde. DH is fascinated with the obelisk, so we had to check that out. I found the brass plaque which marks the spot where Marie Antoinette was beheaded. I can be a bit strange at times, but I wanted to find it.

We strolled down Rue de Rivoli to ... Angelina’s!! There was a line, but we were inside in about five minutes. DH had L’Africaine (which he raved about) and I had café crème and a millefeuille. The treats were unbelievable. Now I know why everyone raves about this place.

Headed back to the apartment, decided we were too full from Angelina’s to have dinner, so just munched on a bit of cheese and enjoyed another one of the bottles of wine we bought the day before. Took a short stroll through the Jardins and turned in early, knowing that the next day would be full. The Jardins are so quiet at night...

Sunday

Woke us leisurely, to a beautiful bright and sunny day. At last, the weather we hoped for. Breakfast was coffee, juice and croissants. (DH had discovered that there were two boulangerie/patisseries in the neighborhood and took advantage of it.)

After tidying up, we walked over to Eglise Saint Eustache for the 11:00 am mass. We both wanted to hear the choir and organ in what we knew would be a beautiful church. We were not disappointed. DH is a musician and marveled at the acoustics and the sounds. The mass was very reverential and traditional – we both had a bit of time for reflection and emerged knowing that we had just experienced something very special.

By now we were ravenous and looking forward to finding a nice café in the Marais. We found a cute little place and had lunch while we watched the street scene outside. And this is where I encountered a first in my travels – the infamous “squat toilet.” I burst out laughing and thought to myself “I don’t think you’ll find something like this in St. Pete, Florida.” But that’s what travel is all about, right?

Next stop was the Musee Carnavelet. It was really interesting and we learned some things about Paris history that we didn’t know before. The day was so incredible that we sat in the garden for a long while, with our coats off, just enjoying the sunshine and atmosphere. But there was more of Paris to be seen, so we set out for the Ile St. Louis via the Pont Marie. Along the way we encountered a Jewish wedding party (literally dancing in the street), a piano player and a REALLY good three-piece jazz group. Great day for a street party and it seemed as though most of Paris was out enjoying the day.

The Ile St. Louis was quaint and so Parisian. Thought about ice cream, but Berthillon and Amarino both had lines about a block long. No ice cream for us. So, we kept walking and arrived at Square Jean-XXIII, behind Notre Dame. The Square was filled with children and sun-worshipers, and we lost track of time a bit, as it was so peaceful and beautiful. We finally got motivated to move on and get back to the apartment before our “special” dinner that evening.

I had heard about Hidden Kitchen on another forum. It’s an “underground” dining experience (can’t really call it a restaurant) located in the vicinity of the Louvre. We were lucky enough to get a booking (there can sometimes be a waiting list due to the small size of the venue – 12 people – and its growing popularity). Received all the details by e-mail just before we left for Paris.

Hidden Kitchen is the enterprise to two young Americans (Braden and Laura) who have no classical culinary training, but turn out absolutely AMAZING meals from the kitchen of their beautiful apartment. The group that evening included four Paris residents, with the rest being American ex-pats and visitors like us. The evening started out with a glass of champagne and finished 4-1/2 hours later with petit fours and coffee. In between there was animated conversation and a spectacular six course tasting menu, each course being paired with a carefully chosen wine. We are definitely not foodies, but we agreed that this was one of the best meals we ever had. As we emerged into the early Paris morning, we literally skipped our way back to the apartment, knowing we would remember this evening forever.

Monday

Another bright, sunny and beautiful day in Paris. After a leisurely “Happy Birthday” breakfast for DH, off we went to wander around the Louvre, which we did. No particular path, just appreciating the wonderful artwork all around us. Drifted back to the apartment for a light lunch, because that DH’s birthday dinner would be the high point of our day.

Made our way to Musee de l’Orangerie, specifically to see Monet’s “Nympheas.” No disappointment here. The museum and the Nympheas were absolutely stunning and spectacular! Somehow we managed to arrive at a slow time, as there were hardly any visitors in the gallery, so we could sit, stare at the gorgeous artwork and just “be in Paris” with our thoughts. We visited the lower galleries, but I guess we were spoiled by the Monet's. The other works of art were nice, but DH’s interesting observation was “there sure are a lot of paintings of naked ladies.” You’d have to know DH to understand ... he’s a musician (and an accountant) – he just doesn’t think like most “normal” people. LOL. But this was HIS trip so all I wanted was for him to be totally happy. And I think he was...

Dinner that evening was at Chez Flottes. It’s a lovely little restaurant just off Rue de Rivoli across the street from the Tuileries. It has some of the most beautiful art nouveau window panels throughout the whole restaurant. Our waiter was delighted to find out that it was a birthday celebration for DH and we received perhaps the best service we have ever had. Madame Flottes herself came to the table to wish DH a happy birthday, which was a wonderful way to end the meal and the evening. We’ll definitely be back during our next Paris trip.

Tuesday

DH had anticipated this day for months, because I had booked a 1/2 day cooking class at Cookin’ With Class, presented by Chef Eric Fradeau. Unfortunately, my bad leg was acting up and we didn’t think the hilly Montmartre area would be a good idea for me to tackle, so DH set off by himself (armed with specific transit directions and the camera) while I rested at the apartment. He arrived home mid-afternoon, glowing and full of stories and praise about the experience. DH reported that they had visited six markets in the area to decide what the best and freshest ingredients were for lunch. The class was only four people that day, so there was much “hands on” instruction from Chef Eric and a great lunch was prepared and consumed. DH did a wonderful job with the photos, so I almost got the experience first-hand. We decided that next trip we would BOTH take the class together. We do manage to co-exist peacefully in our kitchen at home, so it should be quite interesting.

We spent the rest of the day taking it easy and spending some time in the gardens at the Palais. A nice relaxing day, which I needed.

Wednesday

The Louvre was so close, that we went mid-morning, just wandering with no particular destination. I’m constantly amazed at the sheer size of the museum and the different kinds of art. Went back to the apartment for a light lunch and then headed off to Rue de Rivoli to shop for a few souvenirs. Had to search a bit to find a Tour de France shirt for our neighbor, who was watching our house and kitties while we were away. But we did find what we set out for and headed back home to rest a bit before the performance at Le Salle Pleyel that evening.

We had a wonderful light dinner at the Café (which incidentally is mentioned in the April edition of "Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel” with a great picture of our waiter!) The performance was the Orchestra de Paris and featured a piano concerto by Helen Guimard. Amazing venue with perfect acoustics. Concert was sold out, so we were glad we had ordered tickets as soon as they went on sale late last year. On the way home, stopped for a night cap at Caveau de Montpensier, a cute and cozy little bar across the street from the apartment. Another perfect Paris day...

Thursday

Well, we had planned to go to Versailles, but due to the transit strike, we scratched that plan and just played it by ear that day. We decided to go back to the Louvre to see the Spanish paintings section, so after a short walk, we arrived at the courtyard and decided to enter through the Pyramid, where there was NO line. Sadly, when we arrived where we wanted to be, the section was closed for the day because of “technical” problems (as explained by one of the Louvre staff). We thought, OK, it’s a bit disappointing, but it’s not like there’s no other artwork to be seen. So we spent time just wandering through the museum, marveling at the works that we did see. The more we go to the Louvre, the more we have to see.

After reaching “art overload” we headed off down Rue de Rivoli for lunch. We were amazed to see that as we approached Angelina’s that there was no line. So, that became our lunch plan. We had an amazing lunch, very leisurely, enjoying the people watching as we had been seated at a window table. Wandered back to the apartment after picking up the last couple of gifts that we had promised to friends at home.

We finished packing and went to sit in the gardens one more time. Happened upon an accordion player (really) and just sat and listened for a long while. Decided to stay in the neighborhood for dinner and went next door to Villalys Restaurant, a small and cozy little place. Wished we had more time but knew that we had really enjoyed the time we did have.

Friday

Sadly, the Paris portion of our trip was ending. We did a final check of the apartment and the Paris Vacation Apartments rep was prompt in arriving to see us off . We took a cab to Gare de l’Est, where we caught the TGV to Reims for a couple of days of champagne and rest. We miss Paris already...

Reflections

Walked a LOT. Used two carnets riding buses and metro. Encountered the “gold ring scam” on Rue de Rivoli and laughed at the well-dressed lady trying to scam us. Realized that often, the best plan in Paris is to have no plan at all. Ate and drank wonderfully. Enjoyed almost perfect weather. Spoke more French than I thought I would and was received warmly when I did. Fell in love with DH all over again, even after 30+ years.

I got a LOT of information from this forum. We wouldn’t have enjoyed ourselves as much as we did without all the help, info and tips. Merci beaucoup.

SoundDiva and Heavy Groove (DH)

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