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Report 1901: A Month on the Rock

By Eleanor from UK, Fall 2010

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Page 22 of 31: Twillingate

photo by Michael

Salt Harbour

We were sorry to leave Harbour Breton. We drove back along route 360 which seemed as long as ever. After Notre Dame junction the scenery was very different; flatter, lower and greener. Louisport was big, busy and built up with a lot of large new houses. There were glimpses through the trees of the many low islands in the Bay of Exploits.

We did a detour down to Farewell, through more trees with no views. Stoneville looked as if had seen better days. Port Albert was a small ex fishing settlement round a sheltered cove with the remains of wooden wharves. Farewell was just a ferry terminal with chip van and small terminal building. We arrived just in time to see the ferry to Fogo Islands leaving.

New World Island had a different feel again. It was low lying with fewer trees. There were stone causeways between the islands.

Twillingate was a large sprawling settlement on both sides of South and North Island. It had a ‘shopping area’ with a collection of shops including a food store, as well as other shops scattered along route 340. There were wooden wharves and fishing boats tied up in the harbour.

We were booked into Rum Runners Roost in Twillingate, which was a delightful 1920s wooden house with original windows and bags of character. The owners live a short drive away, so guests have the run of the kitchen in the evening. There are two large and well stocked supermarkets in the settlement. We had a nice bedroom at the front of the house with a comfortable bed and plenty of thick towels. Breakfast was one of the best we had in Newfoundland and this was one of our favourite B&Bs.

Next morning the weather forecast said wet morning but dry afternoon. It got it the wrong way round. It was a cloudy start but soon there were breaks in the cloud and it turned into a nice morning. The rain arrived at 2pm.

We drove down to Long Point Lighthouse. There was a lot of lowish cloud hanging around and the foghorn was sounding. In September 2010, the Keeper’s House was being restored. There were well made gravel paths in both directions from the lighthouse. We followed the path to the left to a lookout over a rocky headland dropping into the sea with small fishing boats and back towards the Municipal Park with a big flattish raised beach with several trails.

We stopped off in the Municipal Park on our way back to Twillingate. There were good views to the island and Nanny’s Hole. We could see the remains of a root cellar and assorted bits of machinery from the copper mines which had been worked in the area.

We stopped to have a look at the Town of Crowshead where fishermen in the harbour were busy gutting cod. It was a nicely kept settlement around a cove with some quite old wooden houses.

We stopped at Wild Cove. The north end was more interesting as there are several old, no longer lived in, houses and an old store.

Back in Twillingate we took the back road through Ragged Point to Bay View, which is commuter land with big new houses, and then to Kettle Cove, a small settlement with old wooden wharves.

It was then across the causeway to New World Island, where we did a detour to Salt and Hatchet Harbours. Salt Harbour at the end of the peninsula was delightful with bare rock, small sheltered coves and scattered houses along the shore with wooden wharves. There were good views across to other small peninsulas. This was well worth doing.

Hatchet Harbour was a less attractive setting. There was a big fish processing plant on the pier and a new root cellar by the road.

The drive down Pike's Arm was less interesting. It was flatter and through forest. By now it had clouded over and was beginning to rain. By the time we got back to Twillingate it was raining steadily.

We stopped at Auk Island Winery and came out with a bottle of Moose Juice for tea. There was a poster saying free delivery across Canada if you bought a case of wine. Michael was unable to convince them to include UK as it is closer to Newfoundland than many parts Canada...

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