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Report 1901: A Month on the Rock

By Eleanor from UK, Fall 2010

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Page 23 of 31: To Eastport by the Kittiwake Coast, Greenspond and Dover Fault

photo by Michael

Greenspond - Post Office and church

We took the Kittiwake Trail round the coast to our next overnight stop at Eastport.

We made a brief stop at Frederickton to take photographs and to find the wreck of the Aherne Trader, which went aground in 1960. The back was completely broken and the front rusting. It still had its two tall masts. It was a pretty area with nice views of the coast.

We did a detour round Musgrave Harbour which was very flat with few trees along sandy beaches. The harbour was built out on a long stone breakwater with fishing boats. There were several cars parked along the road and we could see people out berry picking.

We drove down to Cape Freels, an isolated settlement at the end of the road surrounded by low, flat countryside and barrens type vegetation.

New Wes Valley, a long and uninspiring built up area, with a lot of Ďlegolandí style housing is made up of the three settlements of Newton, Wesleyville and Valleyfield which have grown into each other.

We dropped down a side turning to Greenspond, a delightful outport across a causeway at the end of the road. This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Newfoundland, being settled in the 1690s. It has many 19thC buildings. Fishing is still important and there is a fish processing plant. There were wooden wharves with several small harbour areas around the settlement. Cod was drying on flakes.

There is a splendid courthouse and also post office building. It has a nice church which was huge inside, with a big gallery round three sides. The nave and ceiling were newly painted grey and white throughout and looked very stylish. The choir was varnished wood. This was a well worth while visit.

Our next stop was Dover for the trail to the Fault Lookout. There is little of interest in the settlement. The Exhibition Centre and Town Office were both firmly closed. There is a small parking area behind these with boardwalk and steps to the lookout. This takes you past part of a Digby B-18 bomber which crashed nearby in 1942.

The fault is the dividing line for Gondwana (Africa and the south) and Laurentia (North America) and runs along the bay between two headlands on either side of Dover ... so you do need the eye of faith. There were good views inland over lakes and wooded hills, as well as across Dover and its bay. It was worth the climb for the views.

It was a long slow drive through Gambo, which seems to include Middle Brook and Dark Cove too. The Trans Canada Highway was fast and busy with cars and lorries streaming west on a Friday night. It was a wooded and fairly uninspiring drive to Eastport, which was built up with little character and straggles from Sandringham.

We were booked into the Inn by the Sea. This is a large modern house set in extensive grounds above the road. We were welcomed by a large and very soft Siberian Huskie and a cup of tea and scone.

The bedrooms are off a large upstairs landing area with comfy chairs and books. We had a large and very comfortable room with views across the garden and the sea.

We were recommended to eat in the Little Denier Restaurant, five minutes drive away. This was a pleasant, no frills place with plenty of space and tables with tablecloths. Toilets were basic but clean. It served proper food rather than the usual fries, burgers and batter style menus. It was mainly seafood, all cooked to order. We had pan fried cod with chips, small serving of coleslaw and tinned peas with carrots and swede. $16.95CAD.

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