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Report 1905: Firenze, Cinque Terre, and Tuscany Hill Towns

By ktp from California, USA, Spring 2011

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Page 5 of 5: Back in Florence - Three Nights

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Excellent panini at Il Frattelini

We got back to Albergo Merlini, which felt like home, had a tasty Sicilian dinner with ornery service at Trattoria Il Bargello after I Cche ce ce wouldnít allow us to wait for a table.

The next day was the Bargello, a quick lunch at Il Fratellini (eat here as often as possible, I'd do it daily if I could) and walking to Piazza Michelangelo and San Miniato Al Monte. Le Mossace was again our choice for dinner. Although I am a vegetarian, I enjoyed the loud sound of chopping through meat and bones in the open kitchen at Le Mossace.

Our last day in Florence was filled with a visit to the San Marco monastery with Fra Angelicoís frescoed cells (highly underrated site and not crowded), a fantastic, fast, and cheap meal at Da Mario (worth the wait), and a guided tour of the Palazzo Vecchio, focusing on the Medici familyís reign of power. The map room with the secret passageway to Biancaís eavesdropping chamber was a highlight (tours are free and some are in English, book ahead).

The Mercato Centrale is worth a visit if you want to get well-priced vacuum-packed meats, olives, and tomatoes. Be sure to check the USDA web site to see if your edibles will make it past the dogs sniffing your luggage in the airport.

We had gelato from about 15 places and our favorite was Carapina on Via Lambertesca near the Uffizi. Give the Vin Santo flavor a try.

Our last night we tried to be adventurous and walked to a recommended pizza place in the Oltrarno. We had slow rude service and the joint was too trendy, so we left. We stopped at a family run trattoria where my frittata and insalata caprese were wonderful but my husbandís pork chop was dry. I believe it was Godís way of saying that itís time to go home.

Early the next morning we left for the airport and my husband left his wallet in the cab. He realized it not long before our flight was to depart, ran back to the cab line, waited for a cab to show up, told them what happened, and somehow they got a hold of the cabbie, who raced through town in time to return my husbandís wallet and for us to make out flight. Thank you cabbie Signore Manelli!


Albergo Alma Domus, Siena

Albergo Merlini, Firenze

Albergo Nazionale, Volterra

Camere La Torre, Vernazza

Discuss this trip

I Due Fratellini, Firenze

Il Pirata, Vernazza

Il Pozzo Odegli Etruschi, Volterra

La Terrazza, Montepulciano

Le Mossace, Firenze

Osteria Il Campaccio, Siena

Palazzo Vecchio Family Museum

Trattoria Mario, Firenze

Vespas in Chianti!

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