Travel slowly, staying in vacation rentals (villas, farms, cottages, apartments)
Report 1920: Rome, Tuscany, Venice & Amalfi for Beginners
By nikkihop from USA, Summer 2011
Page 12 of 16: June 11, 2011 Day 11: Positano and Sorrento
Our goal for the day was to get up early and take the ferry out to Positano for some sightseeing and possibly a hike or some sunbathing on the beach. However, we didn't get moving until after ten and missed the 10:30am ferry. Since the only other ferry didn't leave until 3:30, we hiked back up to the Sorrento bus station and got tickets for the bus, waiting in the sun for 30 minutes or so with a hundred other people for the SITA bus to come along. We climbed on and took the twisty, turning coastal road over to Positano, which took about an hour.
It wasn't bad, and gives you tantalizing glimpses of the sea and beautiful scenery as you go. Once in Positano, we walked down the steep main drag, which is lined with spectacular magenta bougainvillea and beautiful shops. We took photos and generally just reveled in being tourists. We ate at a beach-side restaurant and had two pizzas: margherita and marinara, with a couple of insalata mistas (mixed salads). It was good, but not fantastic, and probably overpriced. If you've read the rest of this blog, you've seen that we're not foodies, so I'm not going to apologize:)
We wandered into a couple shops, but then it started to look like rain, so we headed back up to the bus stop to wait nearly an hour for the bus back to Sorrento. By the time it showed up, there were a thousand people waiting, pushing, shoving, all trying to be the handful of persons to get on the already-full bus. DB and I managed to get on, where we stood for a while, and then managed to get a couple seats as passengers got off.
A poor Indian woman with claustrophobia and/or motion sickness literally fought her way to the front of the bus from the back and the bus had to stop several times to allow her to be sick along the narrow shoulder. As someone who occasionally suffers from car sickness myself, I felt for her, and it was good to know the bus drivers have some sympathy. You can't tell that from their driving.
By the time we got back to Sorrento and showered and changed, it was 8:00pm. We walked down to the public gardens to watch the sunset and visited a couple of shops to find a gold charm for my bracelet as a souvenir. Not having eaten breakfast (late start) and having just a couple slices of pizza and a bite or two of salad for lunch, I was getting to the end of my rope, blood sugar-wise. DB had to drag me around looking for a place to feed me mumbling about keeping Twix bars and granola on him at all times in case of emergencies.
We finally landed at the Fauno Bar for dinner, which is a ristorante with yellow awnings on Via Italia and within earshot of the roving band playing old classics. It was great for people watching. I attacked the bread sticks, and while still munching contentedly on these, ordered the filet of sole in lemon and orange sauce. DB ordered the mixed grill of chicken, lamb, beef and potatoes, which could have fed eight comfortably. We had some gratis limoncello (not really, there's a three euro cover charge that covers your shot glass of bitter face at the end of the meal). Then, we paid our bill of €41, and wandered through the street stalls and some stores.
Finally, we headed back to Gelateria Davide for gelato. Strawberry for me this time and black cherry for DB. Delicious. The owner explained in perfect English that the gelato shops who heap their bins with mile-high mounds of gelato are showy but not up to code. If the gelato rises above the red line of the cooler(he pointed it out to us), then the gelato warms and loses its consistency, and possibly its flavor and freshness. He took a lot of pride in his gelato and we went back to him several times for our nightly fix.
Another passegiatta back to our breezy guest house holding hands and feeling like the lovers we were.
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