Travel slowly, staying in vacation rentals (villas, farms, cottages, apartments)
Report 1924: Another Attempt at La Dolce Vita!
By Podie from Florida, Spring 2011
Page 3 of 13: The Kids Are Alright
Jean, Rich, Me, and Doug
We slept till 8:30 and went to Bar Farnese for coffee but it was packed so we went to the bar on the Campo right in front of our apartment for coffee and cornetti. Twice the price (€10 versus €5 at Bar Farnese) but just as nice. You couldn't beat the people watching.
Our daughter (a veterinarian in the Army) and son-in-law were due to arrive at FCO on Easy Jet from Venice at 9:55am and they called to say they were getting on the next Leonardo Express. We made plans to meet them at Termini and then go to Doozo, a Japanese Art Gallery and Restaurant.
We walked to Largo Argentina and took and taxi to Termini, which cost €8.80; we gave him 10, which seemed to make his day. Jean and Doug's train arrived at 11:25 and it was wonderful to see them walking towards us on the platform!
They missed good Japanese food while living in Italy and had tried to go to Doozo on a previous visit to Rome but it had been closed. We visited a bar a few doors down from Doozo while waiting for it to open and I admired my daughter's Italian as she gave our orders and spoke with the waiter. Two years in Italy with private Italian lessons has made her almost fluent.
We moved on to Doozo for lunch and sat in the Zen-like dining area out back. Rich and I had sushi and I don't remember what they had but it was a very expensive lunch, more than €100.
It was another beautiful day so we decided to walk back to the apartment because they wanted to stop at Scholars Irish Pub on the way back. I am a lightweight only when it comes to drinking, so I sipped Shandy, a mix of Sprite and beer, while they downed their pints. It was 5pm before we got to the apartment but it was a fun afternoon.
I had told Jean about Alfredo & Ada's since Rich and I had eaten there in 2006, so we went there for dinner. Because we got there just as they opened, we were seated immediately but within 10 minutes it was packed.
Seated under a drawing of Ada and Sergio, the man serving us, and not seeing Ada, I had a feeling Ada was gone. So Jean went to the back to talk with Sergio, and yes, he said she had gone to heaven in 2009 and he had taken over the restaurant. He gave us a lovely little card with a picture of her.
We had wine, water, spaghetti carbonara and lasagna, chicken and beef for €22.50 each. It was good, but not as good as the time before. Still, the atmosphere is wonderful and I'm glad Jean and Doug experienced it.
Abbey Theatre Irish Pub, founded by Yeats in 1905, was our next stop. An Italian-Irish band broke out in rousing Irish tunes as I nursed my Shandy, the others gulped their pints, and the line across the street for Da Baffetto (the original) got longer and longer.
When we left, my tongue was loose enough for me to go into Hosteria Farnese and make reservations for the following night. I was pretty proud of myself! We went back to the apartment, watching "the show" from our two windows overlooking the Campo. I could have watched it all night, but by midnight, it was time to close the windows.
The kids were in bed and we were back in Rome. It was a great feeling.
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