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Report 1933: Le Marche & Umbria: Three Women, Truffle Dogs and an Uncooperative GPS

By Pokey from MA, Spring 2011

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Page 11 of 14: Ciao Montefalco & Bevagna; Hello Spello

photo by Mindy Smith

Flowers in Spello

Breakfast at Letizia’s is delizioso! Homemade jams, bread, excellent and a plentiful amounts of coffee, perfect for Pokey! We say our goodbyes to Gail. She’s a hoot and I think the world of her!!

Although we are given explicit directions to S.M. Angeli and to the highway, of course we get lost. Maria the GPS is fired! (No Maria, I doubt we turn left into a field of farina). It’s another lovely day and we arrive in the hill town of Montefalco. Here we visit the Church-Museum of St. Francis. The central apse, frescoed by Benozzo Gozzoli depicts the life of St.Francis. The town is picturesque and the views of the surrounding area is, of course, breath taking.

From here we drive to Bevagna and find parking right away. Letizia has recommended we eat at Osteria Il Podesta. (Corso Matteotti,67). She is spot on in her recommendation! The owner is so happy when we tell her Signora Letizia sent us here. We are the only ones in the place and hope that it was only an “off” day. We share bruschetta misto, tagiolini with asparagus, pork pillows (picchiarelli with red wine, onion, cheese and pillow pork). We also love the grilled pork fillet with sausage. For dolce Michele and I inhale panna cotta with chocolate and Colleen had the panna cotta with fragola. Total, including wine, €71.50.

We are now on our way to the charming and colorful town of Spello. I would love to stay here for at least five days or more. Flowers everywhere! I don’t know if the town is preparing for the famous Infiorata, but I was in awe of all the flowers; in pots on the ground, hanging from the walls, from windows ... a glorious sight for our eyes!

As we are walking about, Michele takes a tumble and twists her ankle! No ice to be found but we are able to find a Farmacia where she buys a few ice packs. Fortunately Michele is a tough cookie and is able to drive ... it is her right ankle so she could still clutch with her left! Suck it up Michele, you're the driver!

Colleen and I buy some olive oil (in tins which I love) from Enoteca Hispellum, Via Cavour, 13-35. We also buy gorgeous olive oil utensils (cheese knives, salad tongs, cooking spoons) from Arte Legno, Di Passeri Roberto Via Giulia 1. Highly Recommend!

We made it back to Letizia’s where we help Michele drink wine and feel no pain. What are friend’s for?

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