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Report 1947: The Dordogne

By Winnick from Texas, Spring 2011

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Page 13 of 19: June 25 - Jardins d'Eyringnac, St-Genies

photo by Mike Winnick

St. Genies

Today was Sarlat's big market day. We planned to wander the market for the morning, have lunch here at a restaurant that we had read about (Le Presidial) and then head out for the day. So we stocked up on breakfast stuff (cheeses, jam, bread, berries, and cake), and then bought dinner. Salad stuff of course and then Paella (for Mike), Sarladaise potatoes, apple tarts, bread, and more cans of Foie Gras to take home.

Le Presidial is in a 16C renovated manor home right in the center of town, off the main street, with tables set up under shade trees and porticoes and awnings. It's hard to believe this is the center of Sarlat, with the beautiful garden and peaceful surrounding while just outside there is the noise and hustle and bustle of the crowds. More pate, duck breast for Karen, roasted Rouget filets (mullet) for Mike, potatoes, haricot verte, all with typically great French sauces, and wine. All this followed by a shared Tarte du Noix. The Sarlat specialty dessert is a cake, tart, cookies, and even ice cream, all made with Walnuts (noix).

We left and drove to the Jardins d'Eyringnac, first laid out in the 18th century and maintained and added to by its present owners, husband, wife and son. It's a beautiful place, with topiary sculptured shrubs and trees, pools, and vegetable and flower gardens, apple trees and cypress groves, all on 10 acres with a 17th century mansion the owners live in. The home and property has been in the same family for 500 years.

Then we just drove around the countryside, following a route suggested in our Michelin guide, stopping at St. Genies, built around a 15C castle.

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