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Report 1968: A Month in Venice

By BJinNM from New Mexico, Fall 2011

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Page 13 of 28: October 16, 2011 Exploring San Marco and Dorsodoro

photo by Alan Firestone

Millivoglie with bananas and chocolate

Another day has passed on this adventure and another amazing time. This morning we decided to go over to Dorsodoro and explore so we started walking that way. Suddenly San Marco was in front of us. Well, San Marco on a Sunday morning is a little like Times Square on New Year's Eve. Suddenly we remembered why we don't come here in the mornings! It was fun to look in the windows and we cut out of there as soon as we could. Where did we land? Shoppers' paradise--Calle Larga XXII Marzo. Bulgari to the left of us, Versace to the right of us. Window shopping paradise. Noelle and I decided that being ladies of a certain age probably precluded the five inch heels with the two inch platforms in the front. I would have loved spending another couple of hours just looking in the windows; but, alas, Alan herded us onward!

We then were at Chiesa San Moise and we went in but it was the middle of mass so we left. Across the Accademia Bridge and then we remembered it was lunch time and we were hungry. We finally decided to go to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and have lunch there in the coffee shop. The coffee shop was hectic and completely full so we wandered a bit, Noelle went back to the coffee shop, found us a table and called us on the phone. Thank Heaven for cell phones. We had lunch there, gnocchi for Noelle, penne pasta for me and a salad with tuna for Alan. After that we spent a couple of hours looking at the Guggenheim collection. The house alone is worth the price of admission but the collection is wonderful and since I really love modern art and was getting a little tired of halos and angels, it was a fascinating couple of hours for me.

We walked back through Dorsodoro and San Polo where Noelle stopped at the Scuola Grande di Rocco and we went to the Leonardo da Vinci museum. We then met and went over the Rialto Bridge to home. Alan and Noelle went to scout out restaurants for dinner and I just vegetated. They settled on Ai Promessi Sposi. It is another very small (about ten tables) osteria with a very active bar. What a meal we had. We started off with mussels and clams in an amazing broth, then Noelle had fegato, Alan had tagliatelle with a variety of mushrooms and I had seppia in umido with polenta. Everything was really, really good. The waiter had told us when we ordered that that was enough to order and he was right. We forced ourselves to have a dessert called millivoglie (like a Napoleon pastry) with bananas and chocolate. Limoncello and grappa accompanied this and Alan had an espresso also. It was only a three hour dinner!

It was midnight when we got home and, yes, the streets of Venice are pretty empty at that time and very peaceful.

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