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Report 2007: Rambling through Southern Andalucia

By kathyk from Michigan, Spring 2012

Page 10 of 11: Setenil de las Bodegas

Overhanging rock ledges

There was one more village I was determined to visit: Setenil de las Bodegas. It lies slightly to the North of Ronda.

Earlier in ST forum posts someone posted a link to a blog that included the town of Setenil de las Bodegas. I was fascinated with the photos of stores and all types of buildings, built into the overhanging concave walls of rock, formed by erosion of the Rio Trejo, that literally forms an overhanging roof. The link to the blog, Olvera Diary, is in the resources section.

We parked the car and started to walk. I will never be more thankful to leave the car behind. We trouped along the narrow descending streets, with tempting glimpses of the overhanging rock walls. Arriving at the very small main plaza, we took a table outside one of the cafes. It was in the main plaza that we got to experience a quintessential Spanish drama.

Three streets, all at oblique angles and downward slant, converged in this plaza. At mid morning, there were delivery trucks unloading supplies to the bars, some thru car traffic and at that untimely moment, a piece of bulky construction machinery on its way to ... somewhere. All of the three entrance/exits got plugged up. None of the vehicles could maneuver to get out of each others way and several more were piling up at each street upon their arrival.

Soon a guardia urbano, like a police officer, arrived and was trying to unsnarl the vehicles, to back up, move, whatever. The table next to ours was occupied by older village men taking their morning cortados, espresso cut with milk, and carajillos, espresso cut with brandy, cigarettes and purros, cigars. They all joined in to give advice on how this should be done. It was like watching a movie. Eventually, all was sorted out.

Readers beware, if you visit Setenil de las Bodegas, leave your car on the outskirts and enjoy the walk in and back out.

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