Travel slowly, staying in vacation rentals (villas, farms, cottages, apartments)
Report 2014: Camino de Santiago
By Maria A from NJ, Summer 2012
Page 3 of 11: Day 1 - O’Cebreiro to Triacastela - About 21kms
On our way to Triacastela
The bar at the O’Cebreiro hotel didn't open until 8am, so we decided to go for a quick breakfast around 7am at another bar/café, the Venta Celta. The lady behind the counter wasn't in a chipper mood. She chastised the customer in front of me because she said "Buenos Días" twice (she said it was more than enough to say it once!). When I thought it was my turn to place my order she chastised me with “¡Paciencia, el día acaba de comenzar!” (Patience, the day is just beginning!) When I asked if she had any tortilla española she looked at me as if I had two heads. I knew from then on not to expect tortilla before 10 or 11 in the morning.
We started walking out about 8am. When we walked by the refugio we noticed that all the shoes we had seen the day before on the window sill were gone, which meant the pilgrims staying there were already on their way.
We were very lucky that this was a clear day which afforded us the beautiful views of the landscape for which this area is known. From what I understand this area many times is fogged in the early morning but not that day. The views we saw were magnificent, what you think of when you hear “Green Spain.”
We climbed the dreaded (only be me) Alto do Poio, the highest spot on the camino in Galicia. Once I got there I thought the worse was over, failing to understand that eventually we would need to go down (and then up, and then down...).
Lunch time found us at Biduedo, a sleepy little town where we followed signs to a casa rural, Casa Xato, for lunch. I think we woke up the owner, but she rose up to the occasion and prepared a Menu de Peregrino for us.
We continued our walk to Triacastela, arriving there around 4pm. Visited the Iglesia de Santiago and then as previously suggested by our hostess at Casa Pacios(our lodging for the night in nearby Vilavella), we went to Restaurante Esther which is owned by Esther, a niece of the owner of Casa Pacios. Once there they called Silvia (another family member) who drove us to Casa Pacios, an old, lovely stone rural house (€38 per room, with private bath) about five minutes away.
Later that evening Silvia drove us back to Restaurante Esther where we had dinner (not included but about €9-10 per person, with wine and water) and watched the Italy vs Germany soccer game with a group of Italians who were also staying at Casa Pacios. Esther drove us back to Casa Pacios when we were done.
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