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Report 2014: Camino de Santiago

By Maria A from NJ, Summer 2012

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Page 4 of 11: Day 2 - Triacastela to Sarria (via Samos) - About 25kms

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Benedictine Monastery at Samos

Nice breakfast the next morning which included among other things the delicious Cebreiro cheese (very creamy, a bit similar to cream cheese, but better!). And it was here that I made a big mistake: I had two cafés con leche (my downfall when in Spain, I adore their café con leche), and a big zumo de naranja, etc. I would later pay for this.

When we finished breakfast, Esther’s husband drove us to Triacastela, to take the Triacastela to Sarria via Samos path. The Camino out of Triacastela offers you two choices to Sarria: either via San Xil , a shorter route (about 19kms) or the longer , alternative route via Samos, where the old Benedictine monastery of Samos is located (about 25kms). We selected the latter. For about the first 3.5kms you walk on the road, mostly behind a guardrail, but still a little unnerving. I was hoping that by the time we reached the village of San Cristobo there would be an open bar for a “rest stop”, but no such luck. Just many dogs, cats and cows meandering around town, the bar was still closed. So we embarked in several detours trying to find a restroom and wasted precious time doing this. It was quite an “adventure.” Lesson learned: find out about available rest stops and plan accordingly how many cafés con leche you can drink at breakfast!

By the time we got Samos (about 10kms from Triacastela), unfortunately, the Monastery had closed (would reopen at 4pm), so we were only able to see it from the outside. That was disappointing and it was entirely my fault. By the way, the way you come into view of the Monastery, from atop the road, is very dramatic, makes for a great photo op.

We had a light lunch of bocadillos at a café in front of the Monastery and then started our walk to Sarria. As soon as we did, it started to rain. It wasn't hard, more like a steady drizzle but it was raw and damp. We decided it was a good time to wear our rain ponchos for the first time (it would not be the last!). Our next rest stop was the Taberna del Camino in Sivil, where the San Xil route joins the Samos route.

We were now eager to make our way to Sarria, where we arrived about 5:00. After a brief stop at the Information office for a map, we continued into the town center. We debated between finding a bar for a drink or calling the owner of the B&B where we were staying that night for a ride, and opted for the latter. Javier picked us up in about 15-20 minutes to take us to the lovely Rectoral de Goian. The house has a tranquil and very pastoral setting. Rooms were big, comfortable, and with a lot of character (€66 for a double with breakfast). After we cleaned up we had drinks in the terrace, followed by a delicious meal prepared by Javier and his wife Raquel, the owners. I believe it was about €15 per person (PP), very reasonable given the quality of the meal. There were no choices, but we had no complaints!

Although we really liked this casa rural, if I ever did this again I would opt to staying in town or at least closer.

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