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Report 2014: Camino de Santiago

By Maria A from NJ, Summer 2012

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Page 9 of 11: Day 7 - Arzúa to Rúa - About 17kms

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"Crowd" on the Camino

We decided not to repeat the breakfast experience at the Pazo and instead have breakfast in Arzúa. So we asked Jesus to pick us at 8am to take us to Arzúa, to where we had left off the prior day. It was a grey day, looked like it could rain at any time. At 8:15 I started thinking Jesus had forgotten and called him. He had overslept but in less than 15 minutes he was there. He left us at the main square and we said our goodbyes. He had been a great find, and his fares to/from the main towns to the pazo very reasonable. We spotted a cute café on the corner (Confiteria La Esquina) and had a light breakfast of café con leche and a delicious pastry.

Today we walked through different woodlands; some looked almost like rain forests, with ferns and a tropical feel to it. Others had huge eucalyptus trees. The terrain was pretty level, with no steep inclines or declines.

I don’t remember stopping for café con leche that day. Lunch time found us at O Emplame, where we had lunch at bar/restaurant O Ceadoiro. Lunch portions at this restaurant were huge. I was always amazed at the great value the pilgrim’s menu usually offered. The croquetas in this place were very yummy.

Not long after lunch, a little less than 3kms, we arrived at A Rúa. The owner of our next hotel, O Muiño de Pena, suggested we stopped at the Information office at A Rúa and call him. We did and about 15 minutes later Javier, the inn’s owner, was there to pick us up (it was less than 10 minutes to the inn). The setting of the hotel is lovely. It’s housed in a very old water mill, in a very tranquil setting. Our rooms (doubles were €75, room only) faced the back and had lovely views of the water. Dinner that night at the Inn was mainly cooked (and served) by Javier and it was one of the best meals we had during our trip (three course dinner, including wine and water, was €25 PP. Well worth it). Because Javier wears so many hats in the inn, service was a bit, but understandably, haphazard. However, this didn’t detract from the enjoyment of the evening.

Rooms don’t have good sound insulation and we were able to hear the conversations of the ladies staying in the room next to ours. But eventually they settled for the night and all was good until... As I was falling asleep I heard this blood curling scream coming from the ladies’ bedroom. Before I could even react and turn the light on, another one screamed and said something like Oh! My! God! Next thing I know, I hear Javier’s voice in their room, calming them. The only thing I could think of is that they had seen a mouse or some other animal (not a very comforting thought)! I thought of getting dressed and going out to find out what the ruckus was about, but I was just too tired to do that. Eventually, they calmed down and went back to sleep. The whole episode had startled me so much that my heart wouldn’t stop beating a mile a minute. I thought I would never fall asleep!

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