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Report 2027: September in Sardinia

By Marian McCain from England, Fall 2012

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Page 3 of 9: Lotzorai

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Then it was back to Dorgali, where we strolled around, bought a bunch of delicious muscatel-flavored grapes and sat over coffee as we waited for the bus that would take us further south through the mountains to another small town, Lotzorai. There, we met Anne and Peter, expats who run The Lemon House, a four-room guest house for people who love to do outdoor things like hiking, cycling and rock-climbing. Our fellow guests, whom we met and chatted to over communal breakfasts, were all young folk, some from Australia and New Zealand, all abuzz with the excitement of pursuing their favorite activities in Sardinia's rugged mountain terrain. Climbing sheer rock faces and then leaping off into deep, clear water (which is what some of them had come here to do) sounded exciting but for us, in our 70s it is probably too late to try. Walking is our thing, and staying in Lotzorai gave us the chance to try out one of the walks in Paddy Dillon's book Walking in Sardinia, which involved catching a bus to the little mountain town of Talana.

The trail turned out to be more overgrown than we had expected and we didn't complete it but we enjoyed the section we walked. Plus the trip to Talana gave us the opportunity to meet some of the real 'locals' elderly women in traditional dress, foraging in the hedges for blackberries along the way, men in small flat caps, all talking at once, all eager to greet us and find out who we were and where we were from. It was like a step back in time.

Another day, we found a pleasant path to the coast, through pine trees, and sat awhile beside an inlet to watch fish jumping and ducks diving and to gasp at the flash of color as a kingfisher swooped by. We also walked along the coast road to Santa Maria Navarrese, for a picnic and a swim. On the way back, we were caught in a sudden thundershower (the second of the only two rain showers in our entire trip) but within a matter of seconds a local couple in an old car had stopped for us and they very kindly gave us a ride back and insisted on taking us right to the door of The Lemon House.

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