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Report 2027: September in Sardinia

By Marian McCain from England, Fall 2012

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Page 7 of 9: Bosa

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On the fifth day, we hoisted our backpacks on again and walked down to the bus stop outside the town hall for another of our by-now-familiar blue ARST buses, this time to travel westwards to Oristano. And from there, after a nice lunch in a café near the bus station, we took the bus north along the coast, then inland a little through some pretty little hill towns before descending to our next destination, Bosa.

The ancient town of Bosa sits just inland, a mile and a half from the sea, along Sardinia's only navigable river, the Temo. Its brightly colored houses cluster between the castle, on its hilltop, and the palm-fringed river. As usual, the centro storico — the original town of narrow, cobbled streets and twisting alleyways — has by now been enclosed within a newer town with modern shops and buildings and several gracious piazzas. But the spirit of the town is intact. Although some tour buses stop here, on the other side of the river, and groups of tourists wander briefly through and take photographs, basically it is off the main tourist map and it feels like a real town with ordinary people going about their ordinary lives, thronging the Tuesday street market, fetching their groceries, walking their dogs, chatting, sipping coffee...

For us, it was love at first sight. From our window, on the top floor of an old building in the old town, we looked out over the river, watched the heron fishing in the early morning, watched the fishermen in their boats along the river bank, watched the sunrise over the mountains and wished we could stay for ever. Especially as, after a pleasant walk of a mile and a half down the river, there is a wide and sandy beach, perfect for a swim in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. We even had a tiny roof terrace, with a view to sea and mountains, and our clothes hung in the sunshine were dry in no time at all (which felt like a miracle to us after this year's ultra-wet English summer!)

We met Marco and Alessandra, the charming owners of the building where we were staying, plus both Marco's parents and their dog, and Marco introduced us to the local Malvasia (a fortified sweet wine, peculiar to Sardinia), which I quite enjoyed.

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