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Report 2027: September in Sardinia

By Marian McCain from England, Fall 2012

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Page 8 of 9: Alghero

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It was hard to leave Bosa but we had one more place to stay in Sardinia and that was Alghero. With its colorful history and its Catalan influence, this larger town with its well-fortified harbor and mile upon mile of golden beaches is a popular vacation destination. So its old town area is filled with gift stores, upmarket boutiques, restaurants etc., and its narrow alleyways thronged with visitors. Although we enjoyed walking around there, and especially around the harbor and around the miles of Lungomare (beach promenade) in both directions, we found ourselves more relaxed and comfortable half a mile away in the 'ordinary' and more modern area of town where we were staying. We enjoyed our apartment, with its big terrace, on the top floor of the building and the coffee bar below us on the street which had the most delicious espresso ever (from beans which, so the owner informed me, cannot be bought in the stores). And we enjoyed making meals from the fresh fruit and vegetables that we bought in the market and trying out new kinds of wine, which we drank on the terrace as we watched the sunset.

The highlight of our week there, as it probably is for many who visit this area, was a boat trip out to Capo Caccia, the headland at the far end of Alghero's big, curving bay for a tour of Neptune's Grotto. I've visited many caves but this one was one of the most spectacular I've seen. We chose to go by boat rather than catching a bus and walking the 654-step staircase down the cliff. We were thinking about how it might be to walk up again! However, the next day, we caught a bus around the bay back to the same area (which is a natural reserve) but this time to hike in the forest there, where we saw deer, and to walk to the very scary edge of some of those amazing limestone cliffs that we had seen from the water.

We also took a bus trip up as far as what is reputed to be one of Sardinia's finest beaches, La Pelosa, and walked from there back to the village of Stintino, where we ate lunch on a bench by the picturesque harbor.

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