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Report 2040: Paris au Ralenti (Paris in Slow Motion)

By Doru from Canada, Fall 2012

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Page 11 of 19: Sunday, September 23 - Around the Marais with Friends; Alas, at Night the Rain Starts...

photo by Doru

Chanteurs à l’ancienne in Marché Richard-Lenoir

We pick up Pauline and Steve from their hotel and start the day with coffees in Place Bastille.

It is Sunday and our first target is Marché Richard-Lenoir where we walk, inhale the aromas of the market, admire its colours, buy a few things and complete with another stop for coffee.

We then head towards Place des Vosges and decide to go for lunch in one of the Mediterranean/Israeli-style restaurants near to or along rue des Rosiers. We settle on Pitzman’s on rue Pavée, a busy and colourful place that serves the classics of the Israeli cuisine. We share an appetiser of hummus and tehina with pitas, then the mains are almost identical, what they call here falafel sandwich, which means falafel balls and salad with tehina sauce in open pita. A bit messy but delicious and filling fare. The service is fast, we finish and tour rue des Rosiers, then fight the crowded, narrow sidewalks of rue des Francs-Bourgeois and leave Pauline and Steve in front of Musée Carnavalet while we go home, for a bit of rest and icing of knees.

At 6pm Pauline and Steve come upstairs to taste the bread bought by Pauline in the market this morning. I make coffees; we have some lactose-free sweets bought on rue des Rosiers.

Earlier, Pauline and Steve scouted vegetarian restaurants and decided on Le Grenier de Notre-Dame, on rue de la Bûcherie. We share a taxi and are exposed for the first time to purely vegetarian cuisine, surprisingly varied and interesting.

It is a pleasant evening and we walk back towards Notre-Dame, walk through a Île Saint-Louis surprisingly quiet on a Sunday evening, buy without line up some Berthillon ice cream from one of the authorised “franchisees”, cut through rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île to the bridge Henri IV, and we find ourselves back to our apartment on Rue du Petit Musc!

Soon after, at 10:15, the rain starts, exactly at the time predicted by Steve. I send him congratulations by email.

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Trip Report Pages

Wednesday, 12 September - Arrival and Settling in the Lower Marais

Thursday, 13 September - Making Sense of the Neighbourhood, between Rue de Rivoli and the Seine

Friday, 14 September - Expanding the Teritory and Another Torontonian in Paris

Saturday, September 15 - Rue Cler and Pont Louis-Philippe

Sunday, September 16 - Slow Travel Get-Together

Monday, September 17 - BHV;Memories; Temple of Nespresso; a Grand Concert

Tuesday, September 18-Wednesday, September 19 - Biennale des Antiquaires; Marché des Enfants-Rouges, on rue de Bretagne

Thursday, 20 September - Izraël-Le Monde des Epices; Mr. Pickwick sells Marc de Bourgone?

Friday, 21 September - It is About the Risotto; Intermezzo: Crosswalks of Paris

Saturday, 22 September - The Stravinsky Fountain; Back to rue François Miron; Meeting Dear Friends

Sunday, September 23 - Around the Marais with Friends; Alas, at Night the Rain Starts...

Monday, 24 September - GTG at Café des Musées; Thoughts for a Rainy Day

Tuesday, 25 September - Canaletto at Musée Maillol: Acqua Alta in Paris?; rue du Bac

Wednesday, September 26 - One Can't Fight Musée du Louvre; and More Rain...

Thursday, September 27 - Musée du Quai Branly; Village Saint-Paul&Place du Marché Saint-Catherine

Friday, 28 September - The Impressionists of the Le Havre Circle of Modern Art; Jardin du Luxembourg

Saturday, 29 & Sunday 30 September - Le Temps des Cerises; Sunday Morning Concert

Monday, 1 October - Wonderful Lunch at La Régalade Saint-Honoré; Getting Ready to Return Home

Au Revoir, à Bientôt!

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