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Report 2040: Paris au Ralenti (Paris in Slow Motion)

By Doru from Canada, Fall 2012

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Page 14 of 19: Wednesday, September 26 - One Can't Fight Musée du Louvre; and More Rain...

photo by Doru

About the little known Village St. Paul

Much like yesterday, today starts with a dark sky, "enhanced" by some faraway thunder and light rain.

We planned to go today to Musée du Quai Branly, but we have some unfinished business left over from yesterday: tickets to the evening piano recital of Boris Berezovsky at the Louvre Auditorium. Yesterday the box office of the Auditorium was closed and we could not buy tickets elsewhere, notably not even at “fnac.” It seems somewhat naïve to think that there will still be tickets available; likely “tout Paris” will be there, and the Auditorium has only a limited capacity, but we have nothing to lose, except maybe half an hour of time. Time, we have!

The Louvre Auditorium website indicates that the cash opens at 11am and we are at Louvre shortly after that. We miss the métro exit that leads directly to the museum's concourse (rather, I miss it; Josette pointed to it initially but I went on to what seemed to me the right exit...), but a very friendly RATP employee points us right back from where we came and allows us to backtrack without having to use another pair of tickets.

Once in the concourse, we first see this enormous line-up for tickets to the museum, hundreds and hundreds of people. We walk by them confidently, since we are here to buy tickets to a concert, not to visit the museum. At the head of the line we ask a security person about the location of the box office for the music auditorium and he tells us that there is only one line because, once we have tickets to the auditorium, there is nothing to stop us to go into the museum...

We are somewhat stunned by the logic, retreat to reflect, and I go to ask another employee, because it is clear that we are not going to line up at the end of the kilometre-long snaking line. The second person confirms what his colleague has already said: there is only one line for all kinds of Louvre admissions...

We accept defeat, but all the to-ing and fro-ing was too much and we resign ourselves to a short tour of the Tuileries and rue de Rivoli towards the Comédie Française and Conseil d’Etat, from where we return home. Musée Branly will be left for another day. The afternoon is dedicated to administration and to a rainy visit of the nearby Village Saint-Paul.

If it does not rain some more. But it does... Rain, rain, go away/Don’t come back while here I stay...

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Trip Report Pages

Wednesday, 12 September - Arrival and Settling in the Lower Marais

Thursday, 13 September - Making Sense of the Neighbourhood, between Rue de Rivoli and the Seine

Friday, 14 September - Expanding the Teritory and Another Torontonian in Paris

Saturday, September 15 - Rue Cler and Pont Louis-Philippe

Sunday, September 16 - Slow Travel Get-Together

Monday, September 17 - BHV;Memories; Temple of Nespresso; a Grand Concert

Tuesday, September 18-Wednesday, September 19 - Biennale des Antiquaires; Marché des Enfants-Rouges, on rue de Bretagne

Thursday, 20 September - Izraël-Le Monde des Epices; Mr. Pickwick sells Marc de Bourgone?

Friday, 21 September - It is About the Risotto; Intermezzo: Crosswalks of Paris

Saturday, 22 September - The Stravinsky Fountain; Back to rue François Miron; Meeting Dear Friends

Sunday, September 23 - Around the Marais with Friends; Alas, at Night the Rain Starts...

Monday, 24 September - GTG at Café des Musées; Thoughts for a Rainy Day

Tuesday, 25 September - Canaletto at Musée Maillol: Acqua Alta in Paris?; rue du Bac

Wednesday, September 26 - One Can't Fight Musée du Louvre; and More Rain...

Thursday, September 27 - Musée du Quai Branly; Village Saint-Paul&Place du Marché Saint-Catherine

Friday, 28 September - The Impressionists of the Le Havre Circle of Modern Art; Jardin du Luxembourg

Saturday, 29 & Sunday 30 September - Le Temps des Cerises; Sunday Morning Concert

Monday, 1 October - Wonderful Lunch at La Régalade Saint-Honoré; Getting Ready to Return Home

Au Revoir, à Bientôt!


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