Travel slowly, staying in vacation rentals (villas, farms, cottages, apartments)
Report 2043: Northumberland in the Snow in January
By Eleanor from UK, Winter 2013
Page 8 of 10: Down the Coast - Beadnell and Low Newton
There had been a dusting of snow overnight and we had been warned that conditions were not good around Wooler. Tide times were wrong for visiting Lindisfarne so we decided to head down the coast towards Craster. This was a sensible decision as snow melts quickly along the coast and we were soon free of the white stuff.
First stop was Bamburgh to visit Robert Carter and Sons, “Butcher, Baker and Sausage Roll Maker” according to the sign above the door, and a Rick Stein Food Hero. The window was full of homemade pies, pasties and sausage rolls. In spite of our large breakfast, they still made our mouths water and we felt honor bound to try a pork pie and sausage roll. Both were excellent with crispy pastry and good meaty fillings, a world away from the mass produced ones. We had been eating his award winning sausages for breakfast and wanted to stock up on meat to bring home. We were spoilt for choice and soon had a cool bag full of sausages, bacon, beef burgers, black pudding, steak, lamb and brisket.
Our next stop was Beadnell, a small fishing village south of Seahouses, and the only west facing harbor on the east coast. It is at the end of a long road lined with 1930s holiday houses. Above the harbor are the remains of three huge lime kilns, a reminder of an important industry making lime from local limestone and coal. This was taken out by ship.
To the south is a long stretch of sandy beach flanked with sand dunes. This is popular with local dog walkers and horse riders. The North Sea coast is always bracing and this is a good tramping beach.
A path down the side of the lime kilns leads to the small headland of Ebb's Nook. Here there are the ruins of a 13thC chapel. It is thought this may have been built on the site of a 7thC chapel built by St Ebba, a friend of St Cuthbert.
Further down the coast is Low Newton, a delightful small village of white washed houses arranged round three sides of a grassy square. In the centre is the Ship Inn which has a microbrewery, but we were driving...
In front is a long stretch of sandy beach. A lot of seaweed had been washed up and rooks and starlings were busy searching for insects. Low rocks out at sea provide a natural defensive barrier against storms.
The sides and backs of the houses are unpainted stone. A road along the north side of the houses leads to a long, low range of storage sheds. Beyond is the start of the coastal path, a glorious walk to Dunstanburgh Castle and Craster, past Newton Pool with its bird hides. There wasn’t a lot to be seen when we visited, just a few ducks.
St Mary’s Church is half way along the road between Low and High Newton, a collection of houses and a pub around a village green. The church is late 19thC and unusual as it is constructed from corrugated iron which was bought in kit form.
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