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Report 2047: A Week in Paris - September 2012

By Dick H from NJ, Fall 2012

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Page 2 of 8: Friday, September 21 - Mouffetard, Luxembourg Gardens and Afternoon Rain

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We were up early and settled into what was to become our morning routine. I would get ready first and go out to the boulangerie while Susan and Anya started to get ready. We had breakfast of coffee, yogurts, croissant, raspberries and a chausson aux pomme.

After breakfast, we walked to the Pont Mairie metro station and took the #7 to Censier-Daubenton and from there walked to rue Mouffetard and the market there. Susan stopped into a hardware store and purchased two market baskets. We bought some fruit and vegetables at the market. It was a nice morning and the market wasn't crowded.

We walked up rue Mouffetard and then decided to continue walking through the area and then over to the Luxembourg Gardens. We bought some sandwiches from a nice stand a block or so from the gardens. We relaxed in some chairs around the pool and enjoyed a casual lunch. After lunch we walked around the Garden. We thought there might be a honey festival in the Garden but when we got to that area, we found it was scheduled for Saturday and Sunday. Oh Well.

By this time it was around 1:30-2:00pm and we decided to walk home through Ile St. Louis. We walked over to Blvd. St. Michel where Anya stopped in a shop and bought some scarves to bring home. We continued on to Ile de Cite. We didn't go into Notre Dame as we had all been there before. We did walk around it and visited the small garden behind it. We then walked over to the Memorial de la Deportation. It had been closed the last time we were here. We could not fully understand what the person monitoring the entrance was telling us but it seemed that part of the memorial was closed. However he let us in. It seemed that most of the memorial was roped off.

We walked over the bridge to Ile St. Louis and it started to rain lightly. Of course we didn't bring our umbrellas as the forecast was for a nice day. This was the last time we'd make that mistake. We had not been to Ile St. Louis previously. We walked up a street with many wonderful shops and stopped in a few although we did not purchase anything. We walked over the des deux ponts back into the Marais. We walked up rue St. Antoine and stopped into the Franprix to pick up stuff for future lunches so we could pack lunch and take it with us if we wanted to. We then went home to drop everything off and rest awhile.

After resting and even though it was raining, we decided to walk up to the Republique area and show Anya where we had stayed in 2009. We walked over to rue Vielle du Temple and stopped in at Breizh and made reservations for Sunday night. We then walked up to rue Bretagne and then to rue du Temple where we had stayed. We walked up to Blvd. Republique, then over to rue de Turenne where we found Jacques Genin. We went in for coffee (and to get out of the rain) and were lucky to be seated right away. Susan and Anya had cafes while I had a cafe-creme and a wonderful Paris-Brest pastry. The cafe/shop was very comfortable and the staff were extremely courteous, polite and helpful.

We walked home and relaxed before dinner. We opened the bottle of rose we had purchased yesterday and enjoyed it with some petit goutee.

Before leaving the US, we had made reservations at Le Gaigne for 8:30 tonight. We had been here in 2009 and it was one of the highlights of our trip. We walked over and arrived just after 8:30. Our table was waiting and we were seated right away. We were looking forward to having the tasting menu with wine but there was one minor problem. Anya is a vegetarian and does not eat meat - although she does eat fish. I mentioned this to Aurelie and although the menu indicated no substitutions, she said she'd be happy to substitute a fish for the one course with meat (and remove the chorizo chip from the first course). The meal was everything we thought it would be, and though it was all delicious, we all agreed the highlight was the course of sauteed squid with pesto, nutmeg, squid ink and parsley, gnocchi, basil and pine nuts.

We walked home and collapsed into bed after a wonderful day.

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