Travel slowly, staying in vacation rentals (villas, farms, cottages, apartments)
Report 2047: A Week in Paris - September 2012
By Dick H from NJ, Fall 2012
Page 4 of 8: Sunday, September 23 - Montmartre, Madeleine and the Tuileries Gardens
A goat "mowing the grass" in the Tuileries Gardens
The boulangerie is closed on Sunday, but we had a nice breakfast of raspberries, baguette and leftover croissants and some fruit tart.
Our first stop was the Marche Richard Lenoir. It was crowded and there were many interesting vendors in addition to the food vendors. We purchased some small gifts to take home. From the Bastille station we took the metro to Concorde and then to the Abbesses station. One lift was out of service but we (along with many others) still waited for the one that was working. Some brave souls did walk up.
We had never been to Montmartre or Sacre Couer before and were not sure what to expect. It was a nice weekend day and the area was very crowded. We did walk around somewhat including the very touristy Place des Tertes and Sacre Couer. After leaving Sacre Couer, we picnicked in a small park on rue Norvins. After lunch we continued walking through Montmartre (rue Lepic, rue Thorize). Many shops were closed. Although it was not that crowded once you got away from Sacre Couer, all the restaurants were crowded. We vowed to come back another day and decided to go down to the Madeleine area. We walked along Blvd Clichy from the Pigalle metro station to the the Blanche station with its sex shops and strip clubs.
Once we got to the Madeleine area, we decided to sit awhile and relax. We got a seat at the Cafe Madeleine where Susan and Anya each had a Kronenburg and I had a glass of red wine. We were lucky to get seats as a Brazilian festival behind the Madeleine church was just breaking up and the area was crowded. We rested a bit and enjoyed some people watching.
Most of the stores in the Madeleine area were closed and we decided to go over to the Musee de l'Orangerie. Anya had never been there before. It was nice to see Monet's Water Lilies again and we were extremely impressed again at the breadth of the Paul Guillaume collection. When we had visited the Marmottan museum in 2009, they had some computer generated images as to how Monet might have seen the scenes in his paintings due to his failing eyesight. They were mounted next to the original painting and it was interesting to compare the two images. This made viewing the Water Lilies this time more interesting for me.
When we left the Musee, we walkled through the Tuileries Gardens. It was a nice day and the gardens were crowded. We were surprised to see two goats "mowing" the grass in a small ditch adjacent to one of the fountains.
We took the metro home form the Palais Royal station. We had a bottle of rose in the apartment and finished off the olives and tapinade from yesterday.
We walked to Breizh for dinner and sat at a raised table in the front room. This was a treat for us as we had never had galletes or cidre before. The waitress was glad to answer our questions and make suggestions. We were not disappointed and enjoyed our meal immensely. I had a special Gallete Basques while Susan and Anya had the Nordique and Savogarde. I was the only one to have dessert. After having some very fancy pastries and desserts over the past few days, the crepe with salt caramel sauce and whipped cream was simple and satisfying.
Although we swore we wouldn't get caught without our umbrellas again, we walked home in the rain without them. Oh well.
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