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Report 2047: A Week in Paris - September 2012

By Dick H from NJ, Fall 2012

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Page 6 of 8: Tuesday, September 25 - ATM Problems, Musee Rodin and Some More Shopping

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Chez Nenesse

Having practically exhausted our supply of euros at Chez Omar last night, the first thing I did in the morning was walk over to rue St. Antoine to the ATM machine. I was rejected so I tried another one a block away. Rejected again. I began to get a little worried. I walked home and spent my last 3 at the boulangerie.

Whether I was frustrated or just not thinking straight, I could not call back to the US to my bank on our cell phones. I sent an email to the bank and then was able to get through on the apartment's land-line. It took much longer than it should have but I finally found out I had exceeded the daily limit on my ATM card. It seems that my withdrawals from Saturday, Sunday and Monday all got entered on Monday and even though it was now Tuesday, with the difference in time zones, I was over the limit. I was able to raise the limit over the phone and hoped that would be the answer.

We had breakfast in the apartment as usual and then were off to the Musee Rodin. On the way to the metro station, I stopped at an ATM and it worked thank goodness. We took the metro from St. Paul to Varenne (one change) and walked to the museum.

There was a stage being set up behind the house, so the center portion of the garden was closed. (Apparently, due to this disruption, if you were only going to the garden, admission was either reduced or free.) The gardens were still beautiful and the sculptures amazing. The last time we were here, a class of students (around 8 years old) were receiving a lesson at "The Gates of Hell." This time there were older students spread throughout the museum itself, sketching and then gathering together to discuss what they had done. It always strikes us as a wonderful use of the magnificent artwork in the city whenever we see students receiving lessons like this. The temporary exhibition of "Rodin: The Flesh and the Marble" was very interesting and an added treat at the museum.

After leaving the museum, we walked along rue Varenne to look for Bar Soup on rue Princesse. Anya had read positive reviews about it and was looking forward to their Quenelles. Although it is open from 12:00 to 20:30, we didn't realize they only serve lunch until 14:30 and we arrived at 14:40. Although they offered what they had left, the chef admitted it wasn't much. We decided to head for the metro and have lunch at home. While home, we called Chez Nenesse and made reservations for dinner tonight at 20:30.

After lunch we went beck up to Jacques Genin to buy some gifts to take home. We also went to the wine store to do the same. Anya had expressed an interest in seeing the Arts and Metiers station with the portholes etc., so we walked over to the station. We didn't realize there are two different Arts and Metiers stations and we entered the one for the #3. This was not the ornate station so it must be the one for the #11. As we were planning to take the #3, we did not exit and go to the other station. Oh well.

We took the metro to Republique and switched to go to Ledru Rollin. We then walked to the Marche Beauvau and picked up some of the yogurts we especially liked. We walked around the market a little bit as Anya hadn't really seen it the other day.

When we were done at the market, we stopped in at Le Baron Rouge for a couple of glasses of wine. It was very nice with many wines being offered by the glass. We were a little unsure how it all worked though but we figured it out (I think). There seemed to be quite a few regulars, but there was also a woman with a small tour at the table next to us. When we finished, we took the metro home and relaxed before dinner.

Susan and I had been to Chez Nenesse before and particularly liked it and thought Anya would too. That it's family run is also appealing. Our appetizers were a mesclun salad, cassolette de escagots and fond de artichokes. Anya had a stroke of good fortune in that Quenelles were on the menu so that's what she ordered for her main plate to make up for missing it earlier in the day at Bar Soup. Susan had Lotte en Papilottie and I had sweetbreads. We all enjoyed some red wine of course. A cheese plate and pear charlotte capped off our wonderful meal.

We walked home and called it a night.

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