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Report 2068: Going for the Gold in France. Part 3: Dawdling in the Dordogne

By Roz from California, Summer 2013

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Page 7 of 12: Thursday, June 27, 2013: Monpazier Market Day and Best Lunch of the Trip

photo by

Chef at La Table du Moulin

Weather alternating between cloudy and sunny.

We headed into Monpazier for the Thursday morning market. It is not nearly as good as the Sunday market in St. Cyprien -- much more geared to tourist chatchkes. M & I did each buy a scarf.

Mike jr and Maureen took off for the rest of their trip; they are back to fast-travel mode, planning to hit Carcassonne, Saint Rémy and Villefranche-sur-Mer in the next week. More power to them -- they are young enough not to run out of energy on the road, but I think our leisurely week in the Dordogne may have convinced them of the benefits of slow travel.

Researching a lunch spot for Mike sr and me, I stumbled upon glowing recommendations for a place just up the road, in the countryside. La Table du Moulin was a pot of gold in our own back yard, providing us with our best meal so far of this trip -- for its top-notch combination of cuisine, ambiance, service, and value. The sun came out as we sat outside in the lovely garden of the restaurant, enjoying the €29 menu. The food was fabulous -- starting with a tasty amuse-bouche, then a wonderful pureed vegetable soup, continuing through duck "tournedos" (rare pieces of duck breast) with little vegetable souffles, and ending with a perfect strawberry sundae topped with a cookie. A local Bergerac red wine was an excellent choice and reasonably priced at €22 for a bottle. The chef, who obviously enjoyed his food, came out to chat with the diners at the end of the meal and bask in the general praise. (See more photos of the lunch in the album, linked at right.)

You wouldn't expect a restaurant hidden away in the countryside and associated with a campground to offer such a gourmet dining experience. We actually got lost on our way there even though it was only 3km away! So here's my best tip for anyone traveling to the Dordogne -- find your way to the Table du Moulin de David in Gaugeac, just outside Monpazier, for a wonderful meal. They are worth the trip! See Web Resources for more information.

Too full after that long luxurious meal to do anything but collapse for an afternoon nap, we then spent the evening bringing our diaries and photo albums up to date.

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