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Report 295: Another Part of Tuscany--The Maremma

By dean from maryland, Fall 2002

Trip Description: Five days in the Maremma near Manciano: Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano

Destinations: Countries - Italy; Regions/Cities - Tuscany

Categories: Vacation Rentals; Foodie Trip; Sightseeing; Independent Travel; 2 People

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Page 1 of 6: We arrive

October 15 - We leave Dulles business class to Frankfurt on United and we sleep almost all the way. The food was actually pretty good.

October 16 - Arrive in Florence Airport. We are stopped at customs as we have 6 bags: 2 carry-on, 2 suitcases and 2 empty 12 bottle wine boxes. The guard lost interest after we opened one bag and just waved us through.

Picked up our Golf, which we immediately named Tabby. My Audi at home is named “Fat Cat”, and “Tabby” seem appropriate for his younger and smaller sibling.

Loaded up, we left for IL Paglieto just south of Manciano. Went into Monteriggioni for a quick stop at the very good wine shop there (Terra di Siena) and picked up white truffles, aged pecorino, a bottle of olive oil from San Donato and 6 bottles of wine. It’s a great store.

Had a light lunch at the bar next door. Back on the road. I faded just past Grosetto and Kay took over. She managed to get us as far as the turnoff for the SS74 on her own and then we followed Tania Croft-Murray’s directions to IL Paglieto.

You take a small road out from Manciano about 3km and then turn onto the road for Vulci and follow it until the 6km sign. Then you turn on a dirt and asphalt road with potholes, some the size of a small swimming pool, for another 2 km. Finally you turn onto the farm, go through the second sheep gate and you’re there. There are definitely way more sheep than people in the area.

Funky old house with some funky furniture. We are immediately adopted by Twiglet, a noisy and demanding cat. There is a kitchen garden with a nice selection.

Too tired to cook, we go to Montemerano to Passaparola (Vicolo delle Mura 21, 0564-602835), located in an old oil mill. We have a lovely meal with incredible Acquacotta, an incredibly aromatic coniglio flavored with orange and a great bottle of Eric Banti Ciabata, one of the many “new wave” Morellino di Scansano we will enjoy on the trip. After a bit of grappa, we head back home.

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