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Report 491: Maremma: Lost in a Tuscan Kansas

By Alice Twain from Italy, Summer 2004

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Page 2 of 7: Where We Stayed, Moving Around, and The Beach

Through the web, we located Agriturismo Fiume, which rented a three bed decent apartment for 65 euro per day. The farm was located right outside the village of Rispescia, a modern village with very little interest but which served us right with food shops and other necessities, and within 15 minutes from the much larger center of Grosseto. A handful of kilometers from Rispescia there was another small(er) village, Alberese. It had many agritourisms too and a few shops which mainly cater to tourists; if you are on a budget, prices were way better in Rispescia.

Getting there is a long but pleasant drive from Florence, first down to Siena via Autostrada, then on the Siena-Grosseto road and finally on the Aurelia road/autostrada. From Pisa and Rome, just follow the Aurelia road/autostrada until the Rispescia exit.

The area can also be reached by train, the line that connects Pisa to Rome stops in Grosseto. Rispescia and Alberese have their own stations too, but the trains that stop there are few and far between and the stations are placed outside the villages (Alberese village maybe closer to Rispescia station than to Alberese station)! If you don't have a car, probably the best solution is to ask the agriturismo owner to pick you up at either station and then rent a bicycle in Alberese or check if the agriturismo has bicycles for the guests (many have them).

The nearest beach is at Marina di Alberese, seven kilometers from the village and inside the park. The road that leads there is easy and flat but not a short walk. It runs across the park and under the hills of the Uccellina, through fields (owned by the Azienda Agricola Regionale dell'Uccellina) and the pine woods, crowded with singing cicadas.

The beach itself is very long, reaching down to Talamone, and of varying width, on the narrow side at Marina di Alberese, extremely wide at Bocca d'Ombrone. It is sandy and nice everywhere. At Marina di Alberese it can get pretty crowded in July and August and on Saturdays and Sundays. It is serviced with a handful of bars, a picnic area and toilets. Topless is allowed.

The parking lot (shadowed by the umbrella pine trees) allows 300 cars, tickets (4.60 euro whole day, 2.20 morning or afternoon alone) can be bought both in Rispescia (in the square, beside the bakery) and in Alberese (at the park's offices and info center). No cars (or bikes) without the ticket are allowed in the park. Bicycles enter for free, as well as tourists that take the bus (1.20 euro per person) from Alberese.

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